Big 110VAC Transformer

!: Big 110VAC Transformer

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Big 110VAC Transformer

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Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

!: Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

Power inverters

Computers, hi-fi and microwave ovens use considerable power, so if you're considering using them on board you'll probably need power inverters.

An inverter is probably one of the first extras most owners consider buying for their boat, whatever size it is. The ability to use 240V equipment when you are on passage or moored away from a shore supply is prized by most people. At the same time, an inverter is one of the easiest items to install, providing you understand the basic steps involved. Inverters range in size from 50W to 4kW, and can power most items that you now plug into the mains, but you need to understand their limitations, and for that you need to understand what makes them tick.

How they work An inverter takes low-voltage direct current (DC) from batteries, usually 12V or 24V, and converts it to high-voltage alternating current (AC), either 110V, 230V or 240V. The process is the same as your battery charger, except in reverse, and some combi models double as chargers, using the same basic electronics inside. Early inverters used transformers to step the volts up, and were heavy, but most modern models use solid-state electronics, both to step up the voltage and to convert the current from DC to AC, and are correspondingly lighter.

Domestic mains supply voltage follows a sine-wave form with a rounded top as the current alternates. But, while this wave form is easily produced by a rotating generator in a power station, it's more complex and costly to produce electronically and wastes more power. Instead many inverters use a modified sine-wave, or quasi sine-wave, which has a flat topped or square curve. The modified sine-wave powers most AC equipment, but can struggle with some items, particularly electronics with internal power supplies and digital timers like computers, TVs and microwave ovens. Recently the internal power supplies for most electronic equipment have changed to switch-mode systems, which better handle poorer quality incoming AC. At the same time, the standard of the best modified sine-waves has improved markedly, close to that of a pure sine-wave.

Yacht batteries and marine batteries

An inverter can provide high outputs but all this power has to come from your batteries. Short burst high power appliances like a microwave oven, kettle, toaster or hair-dryer are fine, but to run heaters or machines for long, you need a very large battery bank or engine power.

As we have said, virtually anything that you now plug into the mains can be run from an inverter, but the size of your unit governs what it will power. Up to 500W you can run computers, TV, hi-fi, battery chargers for your mobile phone and cameras, and even a 240V domestic fridge, though not always all at the same time.

Up to 1,000W, and you can add a small travel hair-dryer. For most people however the big plus is being able to run a microwave oven and for this you will need at least 1,500W, preferably 1,800W. Don't be confused by the 60OW or 80OW rating on most microwaves. This is the useful cooking power they generate, not the amount of power going in, which will be double this figure.

And at this size, your inverter should also power a standard hair-dryer, plus possibly a kettle, toaster and coffee-maker, though these may require 2kW.

Installing an inverter is within the capabilities of a competent DIY electrician, but if you've any doubts, leave it to a professional. A 2kW, 12V inverter will be drawing up to 200A from your batteries, more than many engine starter motors, so you need large diameter cables, short runs, and good connections. For the higher output models, use 50mm cables (35mm for lower outputs), a maximum of 1.5m long with properly crimped lugs, not screw connectors as they work loose. Anything less and you could lose too much power down the line, which means reduced performance and possibly tripping the inverter. You need proper cable from a battery dealer or automotive electrical supplier. Measure the exact length you want before you buy. They will probably crimp the terminals on for you, but check the diameter of the studs. Most batteries will be 8mm, but the inverter may be l0mm.

If you have to mount the inverter further away, use 70mm cable, or two 35mm cables in parallel for both positive and negative.

Unless a main input fuse is already fitted, you'll have to fit a 250A fuse in the supply line. It's also a good idea to have a separate battery master switch in line, so you can disconnect the unit completely. This must be capable of taking 250A continuous load. Check the size of its terminal studs - they will usually be l0mm.

The DC input terminals on some units were very close together, risking short circuit. If there are no plastic terminal covers, fit your own.

Your battery bank is a major consideration when fitting any but the smallest inverter ...If you take 200A out of a fully-charged 200Ah bank, the voltage at the battery terminals will drop from 12.6V to 11.0V at the inverter. If the bank is only half-charged, the voltage could be down to 10.5V, close to the low voltage tripping point of 10.0-10.5V.

If you're fitting a 21kW inverter, you should have a minimum of 400Ah batteries, preferably 600Ah. For a 1 kw unit, you will need 200Ah, preferably 300Ah.

All these figures assume the engine is not running, which is the usual situation when moored. If you start it up, you will get an input from the alternator, and the battery volts will rise, which will improve the situation, but you should not rely on this.

The condition of your batteries is also important. High continuous current drains will hammer the bank, and quickly find out any weak cells. Gel or AGM batteries will be better able to handle continuous heavy loads.

The 230V output from the inverter will be either one or more sockets on the front, or you may have to hard-wire a cable internally Again, only do this if you are sure of your proficiency. UK three-pin outlets are best fitted sideways or upside down so that large plugs or power-supplies dont foul the base.

Because the inverters have to be close to the batteries, they will usually be mounted in the engine space, or at least away from the galley area. But because most of them have a continuous residual current drain in standby-mode, you don't want to leave them permanently switched on. A remote control panel allows you to turn off the inverter when it's not needed.

Ideally you should fit a change-over switch in the output circuit to switch the incoming AC power between shore supply, generator, and inverter. It's important that you don't have two different power sources feeding into your ring main at the same time. Make sure you get the polarity right when connecting the DC or you could damage the unit

Any piece of electronic equipment will give a high short-term output, but will quickly cut out as it heats up. Best practice is to use the continuous rating to describe the unit. Having said that, the intermittent rating is important, as some pieces of AC equipment, particularly those with motors in them, have a start-up surge that needs a short burst of higher power.

Most power inverters drain a continuous current when switched on, even when you're not using them. This standby current will be at least 2A, sometimes more, which, over 24 hours, it could drain 50Ah or more from the batteries.

This is why a remote control is important. Some models have a powersave mode. This sends the unit to sleep while nothing is connected and wakes it up when it's needed. The drawback to this is that tiny currents, like the timer light on a microwave, will not trigger the unit, so the microwave won't start. Your mobile phone charger will also probably not activate the inverter, so you still need to turn it on manually.

Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

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Types and Brands of Voltage Converters and Adapters

!: Types and Brands of Voltage Converters and Adapters

When traveling to another country, you'll need to know what type of voltage converters, or voltage transformers, and plug adapters to take for your electrical products. Items such as hair dryers, electric shavers, irons, coffee makers, TV, VCR, or DVD players all require power to operate. Unfortunately, the power voltage available is not always what's needed. In this case, you'll need either an 110v to 220v voltage converter or a 220v to 110v converter.

Let's take a look at the various types of converters and adapters available today.

Type of Voltage Converters

There are two main types of voltage converters - step up or step down. Step up converters will convert the power to a higher voltage than what is shown on the appliance. For instance, an electric shaver made in the U.S. works with the standard 110 volt outlet. With a step up converter, it can be used with a 220 volt outlet in another country. Step down converters do just the opposite.

Wattage and Voltage Converters

Wattage typically determines what type of voltage converter you will need in terms of power. For smaller electronics such as electric shavers that are non-heating products, a 50-watt converter will do. For heated electronics such as curling irons, hair dryers, irons, and coffee makers, a 1600-watt converter will be needed. If you feel the quality of power will be an issue, it's a good idea to buy a universal surge suppressor along with your voltage converter.

For your computer, CD player, camcorder, TV, VCR, or DVD, voltage converters can be used according to the wattage power needed. But keep in mind that there are various formats used for television programming and films (VHS or DVD) that may not work with your product.

A TV will need a more powerful voltage converter than what is indicated on the back of the set because a TV causes a power surge when it is first turned on. Many newer electronics in these categories are able to work with multiple voltage outlets. Some electronics contain a simple switch that controls the voltage output. Just be sure to turn the switch to the correct voltage for the country you're visiting - BEFORE plugging it in. There are also code free and region free players and TVs that will work fine in other countries.

A Variety of Adapters

Not only will you need voltage converters for traveling overseas, but plug end adapters as well. Since many countries have numerous types of outlets, it's wise to carry a variety of adapters with you. Some adapter types you might encounter include flat blade, flat blade with grounding pin, round pin, round pins with ground, round pin plug and receptacle with male grounding pin, "Schuko" plug, rectangular blade plug, oblique flat blades, round pins with spade ground, "South African" plug with oversized pin. Though adapters make the plug fit properly into the outlet, they will not convert the voltage.

Some popular brand names for voltage converters and adapters include Franzus, Tripplite, Kensington, Electro-Sensors, Horlick, Devar, Visicomm, Travelarts, Dataforth, Avtron, and many others.

With so many great online resources, you can easily surf the Web to find the voltage converters and adapters you need. Now you can travel without leaving your frequently used electronics behind!

Types and Brands of Voltage Converters and Adapters

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Goldsource® STU-2000 Step Up/Down Voltage Transformer Converter - AC 110/220 V - 2000 Watt

!: Lowest Price Goldsource® STU-2000 Step Up/Down Voltage Transformer Converter - AC 110/220 V - 2000 Watt clearance sale

Brand : Goldsource
Rate :
Price : $89.75
Post Date : Nov 18, 2011 09:00:10
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Made by one of the leading manufacturers in the industry, the Goldsource ST series step up/down voltage transformers offer you a safe, reliable, affordable & convenient solution to converting voltages from 110-120 volts up to 220-240 volts or from 220-240 volts down to 110-120 volts for both home use & industrial applications. The ST-2000 is rated at 2000 watts maximum. It features a heavy-duty cord with a standard US 3-prong plug plus a free American to German outlet plug adapter. There are a total of two grounded outputs on the front panel, one is designated for 120 volts and the other is for 220 volts only. They both are standard US outlets and can be used simultaneously. For safety, it's recommended by the manufacturer that the voltage transformer's maximum power should be equal or greater than the power rating of your appliance multiplied by 1.5. For example, if you have an appliance rated at 100 watts, you will need to pick a transformer with a maximum power of 150 watts or greater.

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Fountain Parts - Cleaning, Care For and the Differences in Fountain Parts

!: Fountain Parts - Cleaning, Care For and the Differences in Fountain Parts

I recommend everyone that has a Misting Fountain, uses Mist Maker parts, and many Waterfall Fountain users, to read and print out this page for future reference. This article will help increase the life of your Mist Maker and Mist Fountain. Some of what you will find on this page include, but is not limited to:

- How to clean all fountain parts, mist maker fog units, LED lights, ceramic replacement discs and fountain bowls

- the difference in AC power adapters. The type/output DOES make a difference in how much mist your fountain creates.

- DC power adapter info

- How to clean your Ceramic Replacement Disc [or disk] with or without a keytool

- which Ceramic Discs are the best [not just size, but color too]

- Using Scented Oils and/or Essential Oils in your Misting Fountain OR Waterfall

Everyone calls a Mist Fountain and a mist unit [fogger, mister, mist maker] by different names. For our mutual benefit we'll address them as follows:

- a Fountain is the whole thing - the fountain stand, fountain bowl, ceramic disc, mist maker unit, power adapter - all of it together make a Mist Fountain.

MISTING UNIT or MIST MAKER w/ LED ROTATING LIGHTS

- some call this a fogger, mist maker, fog maker, fog unit, or mister. This fountain part sits in the bottom of a Fountain Bowl. It has a row of LED lights around the edge, and a ceramic disc in the middle. We call this entire part, with a 16mm or 20mm ceramic disc in it, a Mist Maker or Mist Unit

- There is a Standard Mist Maker that has 12 LED lights but does NOT have an inline controller and usually comes with a 16mm ceramic disc, but some have the 20mm disc in them.

- Another Mist Maker Unit is the 16 Mode Inline Control Unit with 3 Speeds. You can adjust the colors to all red, all blue, all yellow, ect, or adjust them to rotate all the colors, or just the blue and yellow, or just red and blue, and so on. The 3 speeds adjust the rotation from a slow fade to a strobe effect. The 16 mode Inline Control Mist Maker may or may not come with a wireless controller that allows you to sit on the couch and change the colors such as changing channels on your tv.

AC POWER ADAPTER TRANSFORMERS

- supplies the power to your Mist Unit and your Fountain

- Standard Current AC Adapters

To identify your adapter, look at the label on the back of it

INPUT: 110V - 120V 60Hz

OUTPUT: AC 24V [beside of the 24V will be a number between 500 and 1200 which is the strength of the output of the adapter]

Which Power Adapter To Use With Which Mist Maker

- IF your ac adapter is at least a 750m, it is the proper strength to work with a Mist Maker with an Inline Controller, 3 Speeds and 20mm Ceramic Disc. The higher output [higher the number] your adapter has, the more mist your fountain will create. So if you have an AC Adapter with 1000m output AND your mist maker uses a 20mm ceramic disc, you will get awesome misting effects!

- When manufacturers make AC Adapters and Mist Maker Units, they make them TOGETHER, to work TOGETHER. So if you have a 900m or 1000m output, but you replace your mist maker, you may notice a little decrease in the amount of mist you achieve.

- If you have an ac power adapter with an "OUTPUT" of 500m, 550m, 600m or 650m, you need to use the Standard Mist Unit with NO inline controller

- To use the 16 mode Inline Control Mist Maker, you need an AC power adapter with an OUTPUT of at least 750m.

Other high AC ADAPTER OUTPUTS include: 830, 900, 950, 1000, OR 1200, are compatible with the 16 mode Inline Control Mistmaker with 3 speeds whether it has the wireless controller with it or not. If your ac adapter has an OUTPUT of 24v 500 - 700, IT WILL WORK ONLY A SHORT TIME with a 16 mode Mist Maker Unit with Inline Control, or a Misting Unit that has a Wireless Controller. One of these mist makers MAY work for 2 months, or a month, or a week, or not at all if the ac adapter OUTPUT isn't high enough [which means it is not strong enough for the mist maker].

AC/DC POWER ADAPTER TRANSFORMERS

Look at your power adapter where the label is. Look a few lines down where the INPUT AND OUTPUT is listed.

An AC/DC ADAPTER will list something similiar to this....

INPUT: AC120V 60Hz

OUTPUT: DC24.0V 800mA

This adapter WILL NOT WORK with regular misting units. The proper mist maker must be made to work with DC power. This simply means that it changes over from House Current [AC] to Battery Current [DC] If you try to use a DC power adapter with an AC mist maker, it might work for 30 minutes, or maybe a week, but more than likely it will burn your mist maker up within a few minutes.

If you do have, or purchase, an AC/DC Power Adapter and Mistmaker unit, they will work with any Misting Fountain as long as you use the Mist Maker that is for an AC/DC Adapter.

- If you have an AC/DC Power Adapter and can't find an AC/DC compatible mist maker unit, you can replace BOTH adapter and mist unit with regular ac powered parts

- Find DC Power Adapter and the DC Mist Maker Units on our Fountain Parts page. These are for indoor use, you just can't mix the 2 together. Our AC/DC powered combo is a very good choice if you are looking for a mistmaker and adapter and want the MIST ONLY, and lots of it.

JUST A COUPLE MISTING FACTS

- IF all your LED lights work on your mist maker but you have no mist- your First Step should be to change the ceramic disc

- If you have NO Mist and NO Lights

- you need a Mist Maker OR

- you need an AC adapter OR

- you need both the AC Adapter and the Mist Maker Unit OR

- make sure the power outlet you have your fountain plugged into works!

NEVER touch the [top] flat sides of the disc with your fingertips.

#1 reason why a mist unit is not misting correctly is because you have touched the disc with your fingertips, cleaned with an abrasive soap, or scratched the disc with something.

#2 reason why a mist unit is not misting correctly is due to improper cleaning of the ceramic replacement disc, mist maker unit, or even your fountain bowl.

CERAMIC REPLACEMENT DISCS

NEVER TOUCH THE DISC WITH YOUR FINGERS- I can't stress that enough, but I hear of peple touching the disc and then they call me wanting to know why the New Ceramic Disc they just ordered from me doesn't work! My first question is always "DID YOU TOUCH THE DISC WITH YOUR FINGERS?" 95% of the time, that is the answer I get. So one more time DO NOT TOUCH THE CERAMIC REPLACEMENT DISC WITH YOUR FINGERS !

- the oils from your fingertips can ruin your replacement disc, a new disc or old one. The DISC is what makes the mist!

- Best way to clean the disc - take it out of the mist unit IF you have a key tool. [see below]

A good replacement ceramic discs come with a black rubber protective washer around the disc. Place a soft paper towel between your fingers/hand and the new disk to remove the protective black rubber. ...let the towel be between your fingers and disc at all times. The solid white side goes facing UP toward you.

IF YOU HAVE A KEY TOOL FOR DISC REMOVAL

A keytool comes with all new replacement Discs [or it should, if one doesn't come with the disk, then DON'T buy it!]. Don't touch the disc with your bare hands! but take the disc out of the mist unit carefully using the key tool

- Touch only the outer edges of your ceramic disc.

- Wet a cotton swab or soft cloth with gentle soap and water and clean both sides of the disc.

- Take the disc out occasionally to clean it IF you have a key tool for that purpose

- clean the top of the disc regularly [see below]

- Completely dry the ceramic disc before putting back into mist unit.

DO NOT try to take the disc out with anything but the key tool

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A KEY TOOL

- Wet a cotton swab with gentle soap and water

- GENTLY clean the top of the disc.

- Do Not touch the top of the replacement disc with anything else, especially your fingertips

- the oil from your fingertips can damage the disc...then it will not mist.

Clean the disc weekly if used daily for best results.

Different Sizes and Colors of Ceramic Replacement Discs

-16mm disc -about the size of a dime when IN the mist unit

-20mm disk -about the size of a nickel when IN the mist unit

-20mm discs create more mist than the 16mm

- Replacement discs come in different colors - gold or silver color or white

The white discs are a bit better replacement discs. With proper care they will work a bit better and last a bit longer.

CLEANING THE MIST UNIT-FOG MAKER UNIT

- Wet a cotton swab with gentle soap and water.

- GENTLY clean around each of the LED lights around the outer edge of the Mist Maker Unit.

- Clean the ceramic disc while you are at it

OR LIKE THIS

- You can put the mist maker unit in a bowl of soapy water to clean it and clean it same as above. Be Careful! I've broke one of the LED lights off when cleaning the mist maker unit. I really wanted to get that baby clean! But I used that mist unit and the same disc for at least 6 more months, everyday!

like that dude from Ripleys......... Believe It ...... Or Not!

CLEANING YOUR FOUNTAIN BOWL, MIST UNIT, AND DISC TOGETHER

YOU MUST Keep the water and the Fountain Bowl clean. Everyone's home environment is different, so adjust your cleaning times accordingly.

The easiest way to clean your fountain bowl is in your kitchen sink.

- Run soapy water in sink

- unplug adapter from the wall and mist unit

- You may want to dip some water out of the bowl before lifting the bowl out of the fountain stand

- Carefully pick your bowl up and out of the fountain stand and carry to the sink.

- Dump the dirty water out

- put your bowl and mist unit in the dish water - keep end of cord out of water!

- wash it - use cotton swabs for mist unit and disc

- dry with soft cloth

- put fountain back together

- add clean water to bowl

- Enjoy

White Rings Around Your Found Bowl?

Now the folks that are suppossed to know about these things say DO NOT USE DISTILLED WATER IN YOUR FOUNTAIN! They say that you do need some minerals in the water to make your fountain function correctly.

So, when you get that white ring around your fountain bowl that is caused by Mineral Deposits In The Water [and you will get it] clean it off like this.....

- Use white Vinegar to remove any rings or stains from your fountain bowl caused by mineral deposits. Take a clean cloth and place it over the top of a bottle of white vinegar. Now turn the bottle upside down to get the cloth wet with vinegar. Use that vinegar soaked cloth and wipe the white ring off your fountain bowl. It is simple and efficient.

I personally use regular tap water, aka city water in all my fountains.

USING SCENTED OILS IN A MIST FOUNTAIN

- I Do Not Recommend Using Scented Oils in a Misting Fountain, [simply because many people use too much oilsand don't change water, or clean the mist maker and ceramic disc as often as they should when using scented oils] but many people do and it is a great way to use your fountain as a Fragrance Diffuser in your home. BUT, Use Lightweight Oils ONLY. You must change the water, clean your fountain bowl, mist maker unit, and ceramic replacement disc more often if you use oils in your fountain.

- Use ONLY a couple drops oil per clean bowl of water. You will clog your mist unit up and/or the ceramic disc with too much oil. That is not saying you can add a couple drops of oil each time you add water! It means only one or two drops each time you dump all the water out of your fountain bowl and clean all the parts as instructed above. Then fill your fountain bowl back up with clean water, then add one or two drops of scented Fragrance Oils - Lightweight Oils ONLY - like those found on MyFountainDesigns Custom Blend Fragrance Oils Page.

HOWEVER, Real Essential Oils can be added as desired

I hope this will help you with your Misting fountains and your Mist Fountain Parts. I have used and sold the Mist Fountains and Parts for 5 years and everything you have read has been personally tried, experimented, and found to be fail safe when following these instructions.

Fountain Parts - Cleaning, Care For and the Differences in Fountain Parts

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